Tired, But Home Safe and Sound

Our arctic explorers arrived home safely. More on the trip later. The three-trip, four-mile portage at the end (20 miles in total) exhausted them, but at the airport they were high on adrenaline and radiant in their accomplishment. Three weeks on arctic whitewater river, without seeing another person or even hearing a human noise the entire time. A bit sore, but with memories to last a lifetime.

Drumming in Missoula

My business travel has made it tough to get too involved, but I've been fortunate to get to know some fabulous Missoula musicians and even more fortunate to get to play with them. My tenure as a honky tonk drummer was brief but fun while it lasted, with the Bob Wire Band. My business travel made it tough, but Bob did say some nice things in his blog entry "kicking ass and taking names."

Been fortunate to do several projects with a wonderful bassist, Ron Setzer, you can check out his blog here and he gives me a shout in his June 18th entry. Ron is fun, musical, creative, and very good to me in many ways. Check out his creative video productions at his website. One great project is working with very talented female vocalist Erin Gael in a project called "Gospel From The Well." Ron's also introduced me to fabulous singer / songwriter John Floridis and got to do a very fun outdoor party gig with them last weekend. I want all John's CD's. What talent. I feel fortunate to be able to make music with these guys.

It's also been fun playing and getting to know local guitarist Ron Meissner who has been very good about involving me in projects, letting me sit in, calling me to sub, and introducing me to other musicians including Jim Rodgers (pianist) and fabulous bassist Mike Freemole.

I've also had the privilege of getting to know the many great drummer in Missoula, including Richard (Dick) Ostenhiemer. His house is like a drum and percussion lab. I walk the few block to his house and we can explore our world of jazz drumming together.

For it's size, Missoula is an incredible and eclectic mix of artisists and musicians, and I appreciate living amongst them!

Dinner With Two Guys From Baghdad

On a business trip to Chicago. Tonight I had dinner with three guys. Coincidentally, two of them had lived in Baghdad in their youth. One from India, one from all over the Middle East. Smart guys. American embassy schools. Great colleges. Both speak multiple languages including Arabic. One Hindu, the other Muslim. Articulate. Knowledgeable about history. I can't recite the progression of Iraqi leaders since the King was killed in the early 60's, but both of them did, using names I've never heard.

I listened to their tales about what a wonderful city it was. I listened to them talk about the artificial lines that were drawn by the West despite tribal differences. I listened to how the Kurds have been screwed for years. I listened to how the Sunnis and Shia lived together in harmony at one time. I heard about how Jews and Arabs lived together for hundreds of years. That the the first finance minister of Iraq was Jewish. But all the Jews were kicked out when Israel was established.

We had fun. Good beer and good food. A posh, yuppie-filled restaurant in suburban Chicago. What do I know? They talked about folly. Distain for our President. The foolishness. The naivity. The sensless deaths. What the Mansur District of Baghdad was like in the 80's, and how today it's one of the most dangerous area. How his best friends were both Sunni and Shia and how they got along, but now how they probably hate each other. He can't reach either one of them. How his mother left Palestine right after the 1967 six day war, his father before it.

An otherwise-normal business dinner, but withtwo who have deeper perspective than I ever will have. Two well-educated former Baghdad residents who have no idea what we are doing there. Not your normal business dinner. The yuppies surrounding us drank expensive drinks and watched the Cubs game on TV.

John: Living History Walking Through the Airport

I saw my father today, though he passed away a few years ago. In the Missoula airport, minding my own business. The old man in front of me wore a blue, tell-tale WWII vet baseball cap: St. Charles VFW. European Theater. 1942-1946. I said "so you were in Europe during some tough years." His eyes sparkled, like my father's used to. I reached out my hand, and said "thank you for doing what you did....my generation appreciates it....you guys really are the greatest generation."

He was a bit taken aback. Modest. Regular guy. I coexed him into talking. Said his name is John.

He told me about his role in B17 bombers over Germany, France, and Austria. He understood me when I told him my dad was on the first wave of Iwo Jima. Told me how his wife died 31 years ago. A tear appeared in his right eye. I did the calculations in my head: that was my freshman year, the year I met the love of my life and wife today. He told me about his buddies at the VFW in St. Charles, IL. Middle of the country stuff. He told me he was a "long time Republican." He added, "I'm talking too much."

Then he shocked me. He switched gears. "The guys today have it tough" he said. "I feel for them." He said too many are dying. Mentioned "stupid religious wars." Told me about our guys dying in "a civil war that's been going on forever." He told me "it's crazy" and "this President is bad news." He repeated several times: "and I'm a Republican." "It's terrible."

I told him my father was in the big Pacific battles and wondered out loud what my father would think of the current situation. He said "he'd think just like me....this is not right...it's a civil war....he'd be sad that our kids our dying....we have no business there...when will we learn."

When we arrived in Chicago I saw him at baggage claim. I said hello. Nice talking with you. Thank you again. I walked towards the taxi. Stopped and watched him for a long time. An older man, walking through the aiport with a baseball cap on. Amongst people going about their business. Did people realize this little man bombed Germany? Liberated Europe? Wonders why we are in Iraq? And he's a Republican.

I saw my father. Thought about my father. Wondered about my father. A tear came into my eye. Waiting for my taxi, the world seemed different. I'd just met a little, great man who played a role in The Big One...who was sad for what is happening today, who reminded me of my great father.

Invitation To Adventure

It was the beginning of the trip of a lifetime for Laurie, which she is in the middle of at this writing. On January 9th 2007 we found this message in our email from Keelin:

Ed, you can keep reading but I hate to tell you that the following is for Laurie. It’s a girl thing!

Laurie, my sister, and a friend of hers, and I are trying to organize a fabulous whitewater canoe trip in the Arctic . Specifically on the Burnside River which is the same river that Mae took the Widji Voyageurs on two summers ago. (Mae loved it there: beautiful scenery, manageable whitewater, wildlife, bugs (well there has to be some reality thrown in!) So they have enlisted me and now we need a fourth and you are one of the women we thought of (there are a few people we are contacting about this). For some great pictures check out this link, http://www.nahanni.com/trips/burnsiderivercanoe/?pid=1.

Here is what I know about the bones of the operation so far:

Adventurers on board at present:
Susan Kane, experienced woodswoman and canoeist, work: physical therapist for Park Nicollet
Barb Weiser (sp) experienced woodswoman and canoeist, work: founder of Amazon Bookstore Minneapolis
Keelin Kane, experienced woodswoman and canoeist, work: special education paraprofessional, bookseller

Time required: about three weeks, over the end of July through the first week or so of August
Money required: Enough...it won’t be a cheap outing but dang fun and the trip of a lifetime. Think about it. We are scouting around for the final person and it would be great it you were the one. Looking forward to hearing from you. Hope all is well with you both.

I read the email and responded with this: Laurie is teaching up at the hill today so I read this first. WOW! If she doesn't want to go, can I go if I wear a wig and promise not to pee standing up?

When Laurie got home from the ski hill I told her she had a remarkable email waiting for her. She read it and this was her reply:

To one looney lady - If you read Ed's response, I'll have you know that he makes a mess when he tries to pee squatting - so maybe you would want me instead. I am totally flabergasted! ME???? WOW! I fantasize about being asked on a big expedition and now that it is reality I am overflowing with mixed emotions. What a trip of a lifetime. Ed is very supportive and I am still in shock. I need to talk it over with you. What makes you choose me ? - if it's because you need someone to read maps and keep you from getting lost, you have the wrong chick-a-roo. Lots of questions. I will try calling you this week. I feel sooo sooo honored to be asked on this trip of a lifetime with such a cool group of women. Oh the stories we would have to tell when we are sitting on the dock at age 80. Talk to you soon - how lucky I feel at this moment. May not feel that way in late July though!!! Love ya, Laurie

Today, six months later, she is out in the Arctic. The next few posts give you a feel for her trip.

Laurie's Three-Week Arctic Canoe Trip

Laurie is spending three weeks on the Burnside River in Nunavut (formerly Northwest Territories, Canada) which is in the arctic. With three other adventerous women, she flies to Yellowknife on a commercial flight, and then takes a four-hour seaplane flight to Kathachawaga Lake. There they canoe the Burnside River three weeks to the Bathurst Inlet (an inlet of the Arctic Ocean). They'll be in continuous whitewater for long stretches, many of which will need to be lined (walking the shore with lines tied to the bow and stern) or portaged. The river lows through tundra (no trees) with Musk Ox, Grizzly Bear, and migrating herds of Caribou.

The maps show the location. The top picture shows the general location while the bottom picture shows a close up of the river. If you want to see satellite images of the area, go to Google Earth and enter the folowing longitude and latitudes:

Starting: 66 degrees 15' N Latitude and 110 degrees 17' W Longitude

Ending: 66 degrees 51' N Latitude and 108 degrees 3' W Longitude

They leave July 9th and return July 29th. One adventurous woman, joining three other adventerous women, all living life to the max, pushing their limits, and not accepting the status quo! I fell in love with an adventerous woman 31 years ago, and fortunately she hasn't changed!

Next Stop: Arctic

Susan, Keelin, Laurie and Barb (top picture order) as they load their gear into the car and pack it into the Minneapolis Airport on Sunday, July 9th. I dropped them off, shot a few pictures, and said my goodbyes. Paddles are in the long box. Notice the round, blue, bear-proof (supposedly) pack on the right. Packing had to be well-planned to manage not only the weight limits of the airports to manage hefty fees, but also security restrictions. They had to ship some of their items ahead of them because of airport security rules.

Off they go to a place in the world that few have seen. To place themselves out of their element and experience something few have experienced. All a bit nervous, but excited, off they head to Nunavut!

Burnside River, Nunavut

A few pictures from others of the river, just to give a feel for the tundra that they will be traveling through for three weeks.

Finale: Burnside Canyon and Falls

At the end of their trip, which should be happening about right now, Laurie and group will have to portage around the 4-mile Burnside Canyon, a deep canyon that cannot be run by mere mortals. At the end of the canyon the Burnside River cascades down to the Bathurst Inlet of the Arctic Ocean in a huge waterfall, pictured above. One of the two pictures is from National Geographic. This is one portage they had better not miss! The portage is said to be long and arduous. Past trip reports we read indicate that the bugs can be horrendous on the portage, and they will have to carry all their gear and their 80-pound Royalex canoes for several days. Thinking of them today as they should be right in the middle it.

Laurie's Trip: Ends at Bathurst Inlet

Laurie's trip will end at Bathurst Inlet, which is 66 degrees 51'N Latitute and 108 degrees 3'W Longitude. Bathurst Inlet , pictured left, has a small Inuit village (about 30 people). There they get picked up by a float plane for the four-hour flight back to Yellowknife, Northwest Territories. Sunday, July 29th they fly from Yellowknife to Minneapolis, where I will be joined by others to welcome them back to our middle-ish latitudes!